This is the sixth set of clothes and accessories for Little Miss Es
Lottie doll and my personal favourite. This was the most obvious
outfit to me and it was in my head as soon as I started planning what to make. Shetland
is known for its Viking connections and through the Winter every year the Up
Helly Aa fire festivals take place. The most publicised is the Lerwick Up Helly Aa (which is
also the largest) however there are many smaller regional festivals. Our local Up
Helly Aa is the
South Mainland Up Helly Aa (SMUHA).
SMUHA is a more
recent addition to the fire festival calendar and is more inclusive allowing women to be part
of the squads and
to take the role of Guizer Jarl (or head Viking). The festival consists of
squads of people in fancy dress with the main squad (the Jarl's Squad)
dressed as Vikings. They lead a torch lit procession through the
streets ahead of a galley which is then set on fire at the end of the procession. The smell and the
atmosphere is like nothing else and the work that goes into the suits
is amazing! There are all night parties at local halls after the
burning and the Jarl squad will attend charity events in the
following year. Little Miss E's Dad and Brother were in the squad a
few months before she was born in 2013 so I
loved the idea of Lottie getting to dress up as a SMUHA Shield
Maiden, and the progressive nature of SMUHA seemed in keeping with the ethos of the Lottie company.
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SMUHA Lottie in front of Hoswick Beach |
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The 2013 SMUHA was the first we
attended with our little girl and so the night holds fond memories for our family too.
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The Galley - Sunnahamar |
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Lighting the torches |
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SMUHA Lottie Outfit |
Thankfully SMUHA 2013 has an extensive website which
documented the suit making. This allowed me to look in depth at the shield
maiden suit as well as the extra detail in the jewellery and I was able to see the real thing on display at the
Hoswick visitor centre. This outfit isn't a perfect replica but I would say it is "inspired" by the 2013
squad... and thankfully the squad members who have seen it recognise it!
I had the perfect piece of dark green fabric in my stash and I
immediately knew that it would make the base dress. I started with
the mini dress pattern I used for Day One. I then needed to figure
out how to insert the sleeves. I have not inserted sleeves in
anything this way before and I was mindful that I was trying to do it
on something so small! I spent quite a bit of time looking at shirt
making and to draft the sleeves I measured the armholes in the dress, then I
made the curve of the sleeve the correct size to fit into the
armhole. I then added on a generous seam allowance and tapered the
ends to give a wide cuff so there were no issues getting the hands of
the doll in. I used an old pillow case to make up mock dresses to see
what would work and make sure the sleeves would go in OK. It took a
few attempts before the sleeves were wide enough and the shoulder
seams were sitting right. My first attempt with the actual fabric was
a disaster - it frayed and fell apart – and I tried and emergency zig zag
stitch but it was too late. The second time I traced the pattern onto
the fabric and zig-zagged along the lines. I then cut around leaving a
small seam allowance. I stitched the two back sections to the front
piece right sides together along the shoulder seam and then inserted
the sleeves. I stitched the sleeve seam and the sides of the dress on
each side and before hemming it I added the rest of the details.
I used a dark green felt to make the shorter dress that goes over
the top. As with many of the pieces in this project the construction was based on
trial and error. I sketched out the shape of the front piece and
added a seam allowance at the sides. I then measured the back pieces
so they were as wide as the back pieces of the dark green base dress.
I stitched the sides of the dress to the front pieces and then trimmed the
seam to make it as snug as possible and, finally, stitched the top of the
felt dress to the base dress.
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2013 inspired dress design |
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Celtic knot style buckle |
For the belt I cut a long strip of black felt, again judging
the width by eye. I stitched this from one of the back pieces at
waist height along to the
second back piece. I then had a lot
of fun playing with metallic embroidery thread to make the buckle. In
the end a circle was satin stitched using green metallic embroidery
thread and I used three lazy daisy stitches in silver embroidery
thread to make the Celtic knot style motif. The circle was cut out and the edges
were stitched with more green thread. The buckle was then attached to
the belt.
I could not find the right ribbon to the trim the dress so I used a
strip of silver that I had in my stash and embroidered over the top.
The stitch I used in the end was, I believe, my own creation. I got 9
strands of embroidery thread and plaited each set of three. I then
plaited the three sets together and (this is where it becomes unusual) separated the top loop of the plait and secured it with a small
loop, creating a hole. I moved along one section of the plait and
separated the bottom strand and secured it in the same way. I moved
along the plait created holes alternately in the top and bottom this
way. Although not an exact match to the ribbon used in the original it gave a good effect.
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Embroidered Ribbon |
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With the dress comes a cape/skin so I used a sample piece of fake
reindeer fur for this (and it was just big enough!). I measured the
length it needed to be and calculated the width by lying Lottie down
and adding on the shoulder sections. I sketched this all out and cut
it out of a piece of cream felt. I used this to make sure that it was the
right proportions. I added a press stud to each shoulder piece and then used the felt as a template to cut the fake fur. I was nervous enough not
to spoil a 99p sample, so goodness knows how nervous they were with
full skins! The fur and the cream felt were stitched together using a blanket stitch and I then added the other half of the press stud to the
corresponding part of the dress. In the original there is a chain
that goes between the two sides of the fur. To recreate this I added
three small links from a bracelet making set.
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Chain detail. |
After all of these details were added I tided up the seams,
creating small rolled hems and hemming the felt and dark green dress
together to reduce bulk. After this I added the strip of Velcro down
the back of the dress so that it was easy to get on and off.
The joy of looking at all of the details on the website is that I
got to see the making of the jewellery – they had amazing necklaces and knotted bracelets. I took liberties with this for Lottie's accessories and
to make the necklace I used an idea I had seen for making friendship
bracelets where you fasten them with (yet another...) tiny button. The main part of the necklace was contructed using finger crochet to incorporate a charm. I had some sparkly green beads that made a lovely
bracelet on some elasticated thread.
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Lottie SMUHA inspired jewellery |
The final part of the outfit was the shield. It is probably no
surprise that I chose to use felt as it has featured heavily
throughout. I embroidered the design using metallic silver
thread and a chain stitch. The dot in the centre is a single French
knot. I then cut a circle out around it and added a second circle of
felt to cover the back of the embroidery. I stitched them together
using silver metallic thread and a blanket stitch. There was a small
piece of elastic added on the back so it would stay on Lottie's arm.
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2013 SMUHA inspired shield |
This outfit was a really interesting one to make as it was all
about trying to recreate something that already existed. The previous
outfits had been about making something I had imagined, and even when I
used a template I often added my own twist or whimsical fabric. It
was lovely to go back and look at the little details and be inspired
by someone elses designs. I know it is not a "to scale" replica but
I have to remind myself again
that the idea was to make a toy not an exhibition piece. It did feel
different to make this outfit with the pressure of staying true to something you
admire.
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SMUHA Lottie looking out to sea. |